Thread Count

Thread Count is a measure of how many threads – warp (lengthwise) and weft (widthwise) are woven into a measured 10 square centimetres of fabric. The thread count of “standard” cotton is around 185: good quality sheets start at 225; and anything above 250 is considered Percale. Most Moss River products exceed 300 thread count.

While improvements in spinning and milling technologies have pushed up the numbers of threads that can be woven into 10 square centimetres of fabric, thread counts above 500 can be something of a misnomer. Very high thread counts generally entail the use of a “plied” yarn. (The ply of a fabric refers to the number of individual threads twisted together to form a single thread.) For marketing purposes it is not uncommon to count the twisted yarn as double, and for example, describe fabric with 250 individual four-ply yarns as a 1,000 thread count product.

However, accepted industry best practice is to count each thread as one, even those threads spun with a two, three or four-ply yarn. The Federal Trade Commission agrees and recently issued a warning that “consumers could be deceived or misled” by inflated thread counts.

Thread count also has to do with the quality and construction of the yarn used. With finer threads, such as those produced from Egyptian cotton, more can be woven into each 10 square centimetres.

The quality of cotton depends on the lengths of the individual fibres or staples – the longer the staple, the better the cotton. Longer staples can be combed finer to remove more small fibres, allowing the cotton to be spun into a finer-textured thread with more tensile strength and ultimately woven into a softer, smoother, more lustrous fabric.

Egyptian cotton is acknowledged as the best quality, longest staple cotton in the world. Although historically it originated in Egypt, today “Egyptian” cotton is also produced in other countries. It still complies with the original standards of quality, including a 3.2 to 5.1 centimetre staple

Once raw cotton is blended and cleaned it is carded to remove any short staples and dirt that can cause yarn breakage in weaving. While carding will remove around 5 percent of fibres, a further process, combing, is much more thorough, removing a further 10 to 15 percent. This leaves the longest staples ready for spinning into yarn that is stronger and finer to the touch – yarn that will produce a very high-quality fabric.

Any sheets can have a high thread count but if they are not made of long staple combed cotton, they are not going to be as refined. A 200 thread count combed cotton sheet can have a softer “hand” or feel than a 400 thread count sheet that uses an inferior grade of cotton or a twisted thread.

The way in which a fabric is woven can also have an effect on its feel. Cotton Sateen sheets, for example are softer than those with a classic linen weave such as Percale. A satin weave has more warp threads on the top surface, resulting in a silk-like touch and appealing luster. Which is better? It’s a matter of personal taste; some people prefer the crispness of Percale’s linen weave, others like the softness of the satin weave.

In recent years thread count has become something of a status symbol, a “my sheets have more threads than yours” sort of thing as manufacturers and retailers, in order to sell more sheets, have emphasized this issue. However, those in the know, know better. While thread count may be a consideration, there are features much more important to measuring comfort, quality and value.

The quality of the cotton and the way a sheet will feel on your body is what matters most for a good night’s sleep.